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Basic Trouble Shooting Wall Hung Bowls

(Click on image to enlarge.)
Basic Trouble Shooting Wall Hung Bowls

Details . . .

BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING for WALL HUNG BOWLS
 
 
 
Wall hung bowls typically use either a flushometer or a tank to flush the bowl. We have broken down the trouble shooting guide into tank section, flushometer section and a common section to make the trouble shooting easier.
 
 
USING A TANK
 
 
Leaking Toilet (Running)
 
          There are only 2 valves that could cause this: The ballcock/water control/feed valve which lets the water into the tank or the douglas valve/flush valve which lets the water out.
 
Ballcock Test: If the water seems to be constantly running, carefully remove the tank cover from the tank. Put the tank cover flat on the floor in another room in a safe place and then take a look inside the tank.
 
          Water is high in the tank and over the overflow tube.
This means that the ballcock is not shutting off. This could be caused by the following: 1) the float ball has water in it and may need to be replaced. You can test this by unscrewing the float off the float rod and shaking the float to see if you hear any water in it. 2) The float rod is broken or very loose and can be easily unscrewed. You will need to replace the float rod. 3) Finally it could be the ballcock plunger or seat. If you lift up the float gently and the water will not stop this is the problem. This repair is a little more difficult because not all ballcocks are produced the same. You could go to our “Basic Ballcock Information” page to get a better idea of what will be needed. Generally it is best to replace the ballcock. For the correct ballcock replacement become a member to see the options available.
 
 
Flush Valve Test: If the water seems to be constantly running, carefully remove the tank cover from the tank. Put the tank cover flat on the floor in another room in a safe place and then take a look inside the tank.
 
         
Water is at normal height in the tank.
This means the flush valve could be causing the problem and there are a couple of things we can test for. This test can be done a couple of ways. 1) Turn off the water going into the tank. Let the tank sit for a half an hour. If the water level drops in the tank, the most common cause of the water running is the flapper. Another way to test would be to put food coloring in the tank water and in about half an hour check the bowl for the colorant. If the color is there, again your flapper needs replacement. In the case of a flapper replacement it is strongly recommended to become a member to make sure you are replacing your flapper with the correct part. 2) There also could be problems with the overflow tube, flush valve seat or the flush valve gasket. These problems are a little more complicated because the tank may have to come off the bowl. This job may require a licensed plumber.
           
 
Water is low in the tank.
This could be for a couple of reasons: 1) The simplest reason is the flapper or tank ball is hanging up and not closing over the flush valve seat. This repair would be to replace the flapper or tank ball with the lift wires. In the case of a flapper replacement it is strongly recommended to become a member to make sure you are replacing your flapper with the correct part. 2) The other reason might be that the float ball is adjusted incorrectly on the ballcock. The float should be adjusted so that the water fills to the “Water Level” mark or one inch under the top of the overflow tube.
 
 
          Tank handle dose not flush the toilet (handle loose).
The lift wires or flapper chain is broken. Replace the lift wires and tank ball, or in the case of a flapper replacement it is strongly recommended to become a member to make sure you are replacing your flapper with the correct part.
                  

          You have to hold the tank handle down to flush the toilet.
The flapper chain is to loose or the lift wires are too long. Readjust flapper chain or shorten lift wires. If this does not solve the problem, replace the lift wires and tank ball, or in the case of a flapper replacement, it is strongly recommended to become a member to make sure you are replacing your flapper with the correct part.


Water leaks from the tank onto the floor all the time.
This could be for several reasons: 1) On hot humid days in the summer and if the toilet is used 10 or more times a day the toilet may sweat. There are insulating kits for tanks to prevent this from happening. You also may have a running toilet in those conditions, which needs to be checked. 2) If the water is coming from the bottom of the ballcock it may be the ballcock shank seal. 3) If the water is coming between the tank and the bowl it may be the tank to bowl bolts. This job may require a licensed plumber. 4) Finally the tank may be cracked and need to be replaced. If this is the case all the tank numbers and colors are listed on the member side of this site.


Water is leaking between the tank and bowl during flushing.
The tank to bowl kit needs to be replaced. For the correct kit replacement become a member to see the options available. You may need a licensed plumber for this job



USING A FLUSHOMETER
 

Because of the variation in design of flushometer this will be a general guide to work from. By becoming a member you will have access to all the different flushometers and there documentation.
 
Flushometer doesn’t flush at all.
 
·         Handle may be worn so the handle piston may not be reaching the relief valve. By changing the handle,this problem would be resolved.
·         The main valve or control stop is shut off. Just open the valves.


The handle is leaking.
 
·         Typically this problem resides within the handle assembly and is caused by missing or worn gaskets. By removing and inspecting the handle there may be an obvious solution if not replace the handle assembly.
 

Length of flush is to long.
 
·         The water pressure has dropped so there is not enough pressure to reseat the relief valve. 
·         The orifice is clogged on the retro kit diaphram. This can be solved by cleaning the orifice or replacing the retro kit. 
·         The retro kit was replaced with the incorrect gallon per flush retro kit.
 

Length of flush is to short.
 
·         The orifice is enlarged on the retro kit diaphram. This can be solved by replacing the retro kit. 
·         The retro kit was replaced with the incorrect gallon per flush retro kit.
·         The guide and diaphragm are not hand tight. By making those parts hand tight will solve the problem.
 
Valve closes to fast.
 
·         Typically this is an easy fix because the diaphragm is damaged or ripped. This would require changing the retro kit.
 

Not enough water to flush.
 
·         The control stop is not opened enough to let the volume of water need in. Open the stop more.
·         The retro kit was replaced with the incorrect gallon per flush retro kit.
·         Not enough water supply or pressure to operate the valve correctly.

Vacuum tube leaks out the slits at the top.
 
·         The vacuum breaker inside the vacuum tube needs to be replaced.


Common Problems
 
         
 
          Toilet bowl is leaking at the wall when flushed.
Toilet needs to be reset. You may need a licensed plumber for this job.
 
 
          Toilet rocks on the wall or is loose.
Toilet needs to be reset. You may need a licensed plumber for this job.

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